Backpacking in Indonesia

Backpacking in Indonesia can be a real challenge as there is only really one word to describe the country: huge. It is the largest archipelago in the world, and the planet’s fourth most populous country. There are over 18,000 islands (remember that Singapore is one ‘very small’ island), and the rest of South East Asia (if you broke it into lots of pieces!) could fit into Indonesia many many times over. There are over 100,000 kilometres of beaches alone.
This provides travellers who want to go backpacking in Indonesia with a quandary. If you are on a limited timeframe (or even if you had a couple of years), you simply can’t expect to cover Indonesia with anything like the same degree that you can explore other countries. The best thing that you can do is to pick a region or two, and dedicate your ‘Indo time’ to exploring these. Otherwise you may end up spending more time on planes, ferries and buses than on terraferma.

This said, Indonesia truly is ‘worlds apart’ and offers massive rewards to the more intrepid backpacker (do try to get beyond Bali). There are many options for backpacking in Indonesia which are almost as numbered as the islands: from exploring the second largest tropical forest in the world, to sampling some of the perfect hidden waves that draw surfers from all corners of the globe, to seeking out Komodo Dragons - there is plenty to keep you busy...

Where is it and what’s there

Indonesia straddles the equator, reaching up to the Indian Ocean in the North, and down to the Pacific Ocean in the South – Australia is just to the south (hence its popularity with Australians – it really is a short hop) and the islands have land borders with Malaysia (Sarawak ), East Timor and Papua New Guinea. The archipelago is grouped into a number of regions with vastly different features. From the jungle and orang-utan haven of Kalimantan (formerly Borneo) to the densely populated island of Java – home of the capital - Jakarta, to the impenetrable and scarcely populated swampland of Papua: Indonesia simply can’t be put into a topographical category.

The climate

Indonesia’s climate is the epitome of tropical: warm and humid year round. Average temperatures sit between 25° and 30°, unless you’re heading into the mountains when you can find snow capped peaks in central Irian Jaya. Technically the country does have two seasons: wet from December to March and dry from June to September, although in reality the wet season can be ‘dry’ but more humid, and the dry season can be quite wet! This said, Indonesia is rarely uncomfortably hot, and the rain when it comes is normally restricted to relatively short-lived showers.

Getting there and visas

The main airport is just north of Jakarta. There aren’t any direct flights from Europe or the states – you’ll probably change in Malaysia or Singapore if you’re flying direct. If you’re coming from another part of South East Asia, then there are plenty of flights from major airports throughout the region. It’s also worth considering the high speed (4 hour) ferry that runs from Malaysia. This may not be as cheap as some regional airlines, but is a great way to arrive and may fit into your itinerary. You can also access Indonesia overland from Sarawak.
Most travellers are eligible for a visa on arrival. These cost up to US$30 and are valid for stays of up to 30 days. You must have a return ticket out of the country and may be turned away if you can’t provide evidence of this.

Getting around

Indonesia is well served by its regional airports and – especially if you want to travel efficiently and maximise your quality time in Indonesia - these are worth making use of. Alternatively, the state-owned shipping company operates some good standard ferries which bisect all of the main islands. There are also rail services connecting the main cities on the larger islands. With regard to the quality of the accommodation on both trains and boats: you get what you pay for!
In terms of road travel, there are plenty of taxis and the roads are widely used. The problem is that they are not used very well! Driving in Indonesia can be a terrifying experience and if alternatives are available then they are worth pursuing...

Things to do while backpacking in Indonesia

• Borobudur – This ‘lost temple’ is like a vast sandcastle, and really is visually unbelievable. It was hidden under volcanic ash and jungle growth for centuries before being rediscovered in the 19th century and restored. Sunrise tours can be arranged and are mind-blowingly worthwhile. • Surfing – Indonesia is a Mecca for surfers from around the world. There are accessible waves and equipment to hire on Bali, or if you’re experienced then boat trips can be arranged to mythical waves on further flung islands.
• Komodo National Park – Home of the biggest reptile in the world: the Komodo dragon. There is no motor transport at all in the park and hiring a local guide is highly recommended: they will also know how to avoid attacks by Komodo Dragons –money well spent!
• Orang-utan rehabilitation centre – Visit the centres and see orang-utans that have been injured or orphaned and are being prepared for their return to the wild. Amazing animals and a truly humbling sight. There are centres on both Sumatra and Kalimantan.
• Mahakam River – Travel into tribal Indonesia. Leaving from Samarinda (Borneo) you can take tours (very!) deep into the jungle and experience the unique deep jungle environment, as well as seeing tribal communities.
• Volcano Trek – There are many active volcanoes on Java and several companies that run organised treks up to them. If backpacking is about memories and new experiences, then seeing an active volcano is surely right up there!
Backpacking in Indonesia is incredible, and in many ways (once you’re off the well beaten track) much more of a cultural contrast than the rest of South East Asia. If you want to see how a bewildering number of ethnic groups (around 3000) co-exist and to witness some of the most remarkable scenery on the planet then get to Indonesia. Plan what you want to see and work out your route beforehand, and backpacking in Indonesia will be an experience that will stay with you...